3 ***
Albura is best described as updated, Ottoman influenced, Turkish cuisine plus nachos for those scared of all the flavours and freshness of real Turkish food. Which might sound disparaging but a menu that caters for kids is probably a godsend on some people’s holidays.
For the rest of us, the showmanship of the Testi Kebab which is cooked in a Cappadochian clay pot, brought to the table over flames and broken open onto a plate for 2 people (42ytl),or the, better than most meyhanes, meze or mixed dolma plates (stuffed tomato, aubergine, vine leaves, pepper) both at meal sized starter portions show off the chef’s talents.
A comprehensive menu of Ottoman classics like Sadrazam Sarma – chicken stuffed with Ottoman style rice- and Hünkar Beğendi – lamb served on top of pureed aubergine, and a couple of innovations, like chicken with peach and orange come in big portions often with rice, baked potato and salad on the side. Stand out dishes were the spinach starter, with caramelized onions and peppers all flavoured with roasted pine nuts; baked lamb – fall apart tender with slightly spiced mashed potatoes, and the freshly made hummus that comes as a dip with the bread. Less interesting, the Mantı was a bit disappointing, lacking the oomph of the other dishes. Specialities of homemade rice pudding (sütlaç) and baked milk pudding (kazandibi) offer the full Turkish experience or there is a rich chocolate soufflé if you don’t mind waiting for it to be freshly made. Some hardships are worth bearing.
Albura plans to hold monthly photographic exhibitions in its cosy, brick lined interior and there will be a non-smoking section in winter although the gas heaters are powerful enough to mean that smokers and non smokers should be able to dine together outside on all but the iciest of days.
Starters 4-17.50 ytl
Mains 10-32 ytl
Desserts 8-11 ytl
House wine by the glass, 9 ytl
Yeni Abıyık Cad. No: 26, Sultanahmet
0212 517 9031 – 32
Open daily 9-1.30
